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Evans tuning pre-tune checklist
#1
But I was wondering, what exactly do you need to have done before you bring your car in for a tuning session? I did a little searching around and found this tech article on a Pennsylvania tuning shop by the name of Evans Tuning, and thought it was very informative and useful.

Original Source: http://www.evans-tuning.com/pre_tuning_checklist.html

Here is a list of things you must check and re-check before coming for a tuning appointment. Pay close attention to detail when bringing your car for an appointment. These policies will be enforced for EVERY tuning appointment!

Electrical Issues

* Wiring—The engine harness should have NO exposed wires. DO NOT twist and tape wires together. Take the time to solder them!
* Codes—Do not come for an appointment if you a check engine light on.
o Exceptions to this are o2 sensor code, o2 heater code, and knock sensor code. These will be disabled at your tuning session. Please view our tech article on how to check your codes, and what they represent: Click Here
* Battery/Alternator—Should be charging 13.5-14 Volts at all operating conditions. Exceptions to this are race cars running a 16V battery or a crank pulley that underdrives the alternator (i.e. Fluidampr race pulley).
* Fuel Pumps—DO NOT install the pumps if there is dirt, debris, or rust in the tank. If there is rust in the tank, replace it. You will starve the engine of fuel if you leave junk in the tank.

Grounds: Make sure you have good, clean grounds. The 3 major grounds are:

* battery to chassis
* transmission case to chassis
* valve cover to chassis

Fuel Issues

Fuel Pumps: If you are sumping your tank, make sure the tank is free of metal chips, welding slag, and any other debris. Those running external fuel pumps need to check the pre and post filter before the tuning session, assuming you have started the car. We only recommend stainless filters for aftermarket external fuel pump setups. Paper filters can deteriorate and collapse over time. Pre-filter should be 20-40 micron, and post filter should be 100+ micron for Bosch 044 fuel pumps. Refer to Aeromotive and Weldons site for their particular pre and post filter requirements.

Fuel Pressure: For any application, we recommend having a fuel pressure gauge. If you are looking for an electronic option, AEM, Apex, and Greddy all make decent gauges. If you have a standalone that allows datalogging (such as AEM, Hondata, FAST, etc), we highly encourage getting a fuel pressure sensor to monitor. Note your fuel pressure before tuning. Base fuel pressure with engine on and vacuum line removed from the fuel pressure regulator should be between 40-50psi.

Fuel pressure regulator (fpr): Aftermarket FPR is not necessary for every application. If fuel pressure is greater than 50psi, get a regulator. Also, an adjustable fuel pressure regulator is a good idea if you need to get more flow out of a given cc/min injector. For example if you have 440cc injectors at 45psi base fuel pressure, at 60 psi base fuel pressure they would flow 525 cc/min. Note that you NEED to have a fuel pump that is able to support higher base fuel pressures. An inline Walbro 255lph HP pump or inline Bosch 044 is an excellent choice to use when running higher base fuel pressures.

Injectors: Make sure there are no vacuum or fuel pressure leaks as a result of torn or old o-rings. Also, make sure your fuel injectors are sized appropriately for the power that you are trying to make. Below is a quick guideline for injector to power rating given a base fuel pressure between 40-50psi:

240cc/min (stock): 170-180whp
310cc/min: 200-240whp
370cc/min: 250-275whp
440cc/min: 300-325whp
550cc/min:350-375whp
650cc/min: 400-425whp
750cc/min: 450-475whp
1000cc/min: 600whp
1200cc/min: 700whp
1600cc/min: 850whp

*Note that more power can be made with the same size injector with higher base fuel pressures. You must have a fuel pump that sustain high fuel pressures. The BEST pump we have found is the Bosch 044 inline fuel pump. Using a walbro 255lph HP intank fuel pump, and the Bosch 044 fuel pump inline fuel pressure can be held in the 120-130 psi range. With high base fuel pressures of 60-70psi, 20-30% more cc/min flow can be had from the same injector size. If using E85 fuel, all injector ratings will be approximately 30% less.

Mechanical Issues

Engine—What is a healthy engine???
Compression test results should be as follows:

* 8:1-8.5:1 compression: 150-170 psi per cylinder
* 8.5:1~9.5:1 compression: 170-210 psi per cylinder
* 9.5:1~11:1 compression: 210-275 psi per cylinder
* 11:1+ compression: 250+ per cylinder (highly depends on cams being used)

DO NOT have more than 20psi variance between cylinders. It is not ok to come for an appointment where there are 3 cylinders that have good compression and one that doesn’t. The 3 good don’t make up for the one bad.

Valve Lash
Make sure the engine has proper valve lash for the cams being used. For OEM cams, .007 on the intake and .009 on exhaust. Aftermarket cams typically require different settings. Refer to the manufacturer for these specifications. Valve adjustments should be done when the motor is completely cool.

Timing Belt

* Needs to be installed properly.
* Should have minimal to no slack. If it is too loose, you run the risk of skipping a tooth or running incorrect timing.

Oil Leaks
Some of the more common types of leaks are:

* Oil pan
* Cam seal
* Distributor seal
* Valve cover gasket seal
* VTEC solenoid seal
* Oil filter
* Oil sandwich adapter

*All of these leaks will need to be fixed before tuning.*

Clutch

Make sure your clutch you are using is rated for the torque capacity of the power that you plan on making. For example, a Competition Stage 2 Clutch is rated for 250-275tq at the wheels. If you are making 500whp and 350tq, the clutch will slip. DO NOT come for a tuning appointment with a supercharger, turbocharger or nitrous and use a stock clutch! We see this happen all the time, and your tuning session will be cut short due to clutch slippage. You will still be required to pay the full tuning fee. Also, if your particular clutch requires a break-in before making power pulls PLEASE DO SO BEFORE TUNING!! Not only will you ruin your clutch on the dyno, you will void your clutches warranty (if it has one) and end your tuning session early. If you plan on making more than 500-550whp level, its a good idea on run a twin disk clutch. They are more expensive, but offer superior torque capacity holding and high rpm shifting. We sell and recommend Competition Clutch and Exedy. If you would like to discuss what clutch is best for your application, or pricing please email sales@evans-tuning.com.

Turbo Systems

* Make sure you have secured your pipes so that they do not blow off at a tuning appointment. If the pipes aren’t blowing off on some of the 800+whp cars running 40-50psi of boost that I am tuning then they shouldn’t on the 250-300whp cars either. Use silicone hump hoses where applicable and t-bolt clamps. Also, have a ridge or bead welded to the edge of the charge pipe so the clamp has something to bite to. All Evans Tuning and Full Race turbo kits will have this done for you.
* Make sure all of the bolts are tightened, in particular, the exhaust manifold bolts. This is considered an exhaust leak and you will lose power as a result.
* Make sure the o2 sensor hole is big enough to fit the common wideband sensors.
* Make sure the blow off valve is tight. Do you want it to sound “cool” or work properly?
* Be sure to use the proper oil feed and return lines and that they are installed properly.
* Turbo shaft play. Don’t expect that you can come to an appointment and make 500hp with a turbo that is shot. Get it rebuilt or buy a new one!
* LS/VTEC—DO NOT USE brass tees inline to feed an oil pressure guage, turbo oil feed line, and LS/VTEC line. There’s too much volume and not enough pressure. Say goodbye to VTEC!

*Evans Tuning is now offering PWM boost control packages for Neptune eeprom, NepTune RTP and Hondata s300 systems. The package includes boost control/pwm hardware added to the ecu, boost solenoid (billet 3 port or 4 port design depending on application), fittings, vacuum lines and installation for 150.00! This will allow boost by gear and rpm control! This is the ultimate way to control boost for street cars, as well as track cars. Why spend 100-200.00 on a crappy manual boost controller, or hundreds on a fancy electronic boost controller when you can have it controlled by the Honda ECU!

GT/Ball bearing turbo: All water cooled ball bearing turbos must use coolant lines. Oil is only used for lubrication, not cooling on a GT turbo. If you do not run separate coolant lines in addition to oil lines you can ruin the turbo seals and/or bearings. Garrett GT turbos should not see more than 40psi of oil pressure. Engines can see 70-100psi at WOT and over 80psi cold depending on oiling system and weight of oil being used. As a result, you need to run an oil restrictor on the turbo in addition to the one it already comes with.

Borg Warner and Bullseye power turbos: Run -4 a.n feed line. Anything smaller will starve the center section of oil!

Exhaust:

All turbo cars should run a minimum of 3” downpipe, test pipe, and exhaust. Those looking to pass visual inspection should run a gutted 3” hi-flow cat.

All motor and supercharged B and D-series motors can run a 2.5” exhaust. A 3” exhaust is not necessary, but will not hurt power if it is used. All motor, supercharged, and nitrous K and H-series motors should use 3” exhausts.

We do not recommend catalytic converters on any turbocharged car. If you must run a cat to pass visual inspection, we highly recommend gutting the cat and essentially running a test pipe. If you come to a tuning appointment with a cat on the car and not hollowed and we suspect that it is creating a power loss, we can gut it for you, but it will not be done for free.

DO NOT COME WITH A ONE PIECE EXHAUST, AND EXPECT TO HAVE WORK PERFORMED ON ANYTHING THAT INVOLVES THE EXHAUST!(ie. downpipe, muffler, 02 bung, cat, etc.)

Intercooler: We do not recommend using cheap eBay intercoolers. Many eBay cores are braised, not welded. The cores are not nearly as efficient as Garrett and PWR. Do not have cracks and/or pinhole leaks. We recommend, sell and use Garrett bar and plate intercoolers. They are hands down the best on the market that we have tested and used.

Ignition: We recommend OEM spark plug wires/coil packs for every application. If running MSD, we only recommend using the digital series, not the analog. Make sure you have the proper coil to go with the digital 6 or 7 ignition box.

Cap/Rotor: New OEM cap and rotor are recommended unless running an ignition amplifier box, such as MSD, M&W, etc. If aftermarket CDI ignition is used with distributed spark and external coil, use an MSD cap and rotor.

Spark plugs:

Spark plugs are a very important aspect that should not be overlooked for performance applications. The need for a colder spark plug increases with power output (heat), and different engine management systems have different RF (Radio Frequency) thresholds that require a resistor style spark plug to be used. A resistor style spark plug is just that, it has a resistor built in so that the spark plug can absorb the RF energy generated from the spark. Systems such as Hondata s300 and Hondata Kpro are very susceptible to RF noise interference, and as a result should only be used with a resistor style plug. Datalogging will not work at high rpm, as well as possible ignition misfire if non-resistor plugs are used with the Hondata system. Below are listed RESISTOR style spark plugs:

* BKR7E (good up to 500whp)
* BKR8EIX (good up to 600 whp)
* BKR9EIX (good up to 700-800whp)
* R6601-10 (good up to 1000whp)

If you are not using Hondata s300 or Hondata Kpro for engine management, here are plugs you can use:

B-series, D-series, H-series, K-series, F-series (F20c, F22c), NSX (C30/C32):

* NGK BKR7E (up to 500whp)
* NGK R5671A-9 (up to 600whp)
* NGK R5671A-9 (up to 800whp)
* NGK R5671A-10 (up to 1000whp)

Recommendations on plugs are the same for all applications (i.e. turbo, all motor, nitrous, supercharged).

OBD Conversions

What you'll need to go from OBD-2 to OBD-1 are the following:

* OBD-2 to OBD-1 conversion harness
* OBD-1 ECU such as p28/p30/p72/p75/p06/etc
* OBD-1 injector clips if going with aftermarket fuel injectors

What you'll need to go from OBD-0 to OBD-1 are the following:

* OBD-0 to OBD-1 converter harness
* OBD-1 distributor
* remove resistor pack if using saturated style injector
* OBD-1 ecu

**We have conversion harnesses, injector clips and ecus in stock. Please call or email for availability.

Miscellaneous

* I have a Dynapack Dyno. I take the wheels off of your car to tune the car. Do not come to the appointment without the wheel lug key if you have locking wheel lugs.
* Bring extra spark plugs if you don’t want to pay for them. New spark plugs are NOT included in the tuning rate.
* Make sure all fluid levels are up to par. No oil, no engine. No coolant, overheating issue.
* Bleed the coolant system before you come for the appointment. If your car is overheating, DO NOT come for the appointment. I cannot tune a car that is overheating.
* Make sure you have brakes on the car that are suited for your power level. I street tune every car after tuning on the dyno and I should feel safe riding in your car. It goes fast it needs to stop fast!
* You NEED to have an o2 bung in the downpipe/header in order for me to tune your car. On a turbo car i prefer the o2 bung to be at least 18 inches away from the turbine housing discharge. I need at least 2 feet of length from the o2 sensor location and opening of the exhaust. If I do not have at least this much distance the o2 sensor cannot read properly due to oxygen contamination, which will make the wideband read leaner and tuning will be not be correct.
* Check to make sure that your o2 sensor is able to be taken out at the time of the tuning appointment. With heat cycling o2 sensors tend to "stick" into the threads, especially if anti-seize was not used prior to installation. We get many cars that come into tuning appointments that close to an hour is spent trying to remove the o2 sensors due to rusting/sticking. If you are in doubt, loosen the o2 sensor before the tuning appointment to make sure its able to be removed with ease at time of tuning. Hourly labor rate will be charged if o2 sensor is not able to be removed easily.
* Please make sure that the o2 sensor hole is opened up the entire diameter of the threaded bung. Alot of headers and downpipes are only opened up enough to allow for a honda o2 sensor to be installed. I use a Bosch LSU 4.1 wideband oxygen sensor to tune with, the tip of the sensor is the entire diameter of the threaded bung. If the hole is not large enough, I cannot install my o2 sensor. With a portable die grinder I can modify the hole, but you will be charged a fee (please see rates page).
* We can tune an automatic car, IF and ONLY IF, the transmission is able to be locked into a particular gear. The dynapack dyno calculates horsepower and torque by knowing a single gear ratio. If the automatic transmission shifts into different gears while under a load, the dyno cannot provide the proper load and cannot calculate horspower/torque.
* Make sure you have the correct size wastegate spring in your wastegate (turbo cars only). You can typically more than double the rated spring pressure with a boost controller. An electronic boost controller will allow more boost to be achieved in comparison to a manual boost controller. If you only plan on running pump gas, use a lower rated wastegate spring and run a boost controller to turn up the boost.

Fuel:

No matter what fuel you are tuning on, you will need to have a half tank of gas in the car for the tuning session. This usually equates to about 5 gallons of gas.
Oil:

* All motor (street or race car): 10w30
* SC, Turbo, Nitrous (Street car): 10w30
* Track only cars (turbo): 20w50

Non synthetic oil should be used on all applications. We recommend Valvoline VR-1 on race cars. Any brand non-synthetic for street cars. OEM Honda filter or Puralator filter are recommended. We recommend non-synthetic oil because most built high performance engines are set at looser tolerances, and will consume synethic oil much more frequently in comparison to non-synthetic.

Oil Change Frequency
High performance street cars:

* Turbo: ~2000 miles (1000 miles if run harder)
* N/A, Supercharge, Nitrous: ~3000 miles

Track cars: After every race!

Thank you Artik from Darktune.net for the information from evans-tuning.com
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#2
Holleeer, glad to see the site info is being put to good use.
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#3
Yea, I saw this a while back and read the whole thing.. I just re-read it tho for entertainment.
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#4
good info! just what i need before i go tune Toungue
so non synthetic oils are recommended eh?
edit by: Adam SkunkdSiR
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#5
(07-20-2010, 03:52 AM)96ej8 Wrote:  good info! just what i need before i go tune Toungue
so non synthetic oils are recommended eh?

this is what stuck out to me as well, never heard this before but his reasoning is top notch.
The only thing that truly holds a man back is the lack of imagination.
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#6
this guy lives/works about 30-45 min from me .. my friend actually does the welding for him on his cars
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#7
Wow. A lot to know. Thanks for the info
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#8
Back from the dead thread BUMP.

Lots of positive recommendations for Evans Tuning in PA. I plan on heading out there in a few weeks to check them out for some work I need done. I either will be turbo'ing the D16 or swapping in a simple B series to help this car wake up a bit. They can basically accomplish anything Honda related according to the website. It's also loaded (as you can see) with tons of tech info and tips.
VSM FTW Rock
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