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Block for turbo build
#1
Hi squad, I want to start building a motor slowly for my car as mine is starting to make rattling noises and it has 200k on it anyway. I have found a y7 engine for $80 on Craigslist with a spun bearing I think the head is also included. I have also found a y8 motor with an extra cylinder head and some other parts for $200.
From what I know, the y7 block is apparently better but y8 head obviously flows better. I don't want vtec since it's going to be a boosted motor. Just trying to see what your guys' opinions would be.
Right now I want around 250 whp but to be able to add more later on so I want the build the bottom end pretty well. It's going to be a slow build.
If anything I could buy both blocks and mix and match if need be and end up with 2 working motors anyway so that's not a big deal.
Comments welcome.
Understeer: When you hit the wall with the front of the car.
Oversteer: When you hit the wall with the rear of the car.
Horsepower: How fast you hit the wall.
Torque: How far you take the wall with you.
EJ8 Build: http://www.ej8squad.com/thread-19806.html
1984 Sabre Build: http://v4musclebike.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15402
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#2
I can also get my hands on a D15B bare block and a complete head.
I'm planning on using a z6 crank in the motor and I don't think I'll have a problem using an older motor in my car because they're not that strict around here.
What would be the best route to go?
Understeer: When you hit the wall with the front of the car.
Oversteer: When you hit the wall with the rear of the car.
Horsepower: How fast you hit the wall.
Torque: How far you take the wall with you.
EJ8 Build: http://www.ej8squad.com/thread-19806.html
1984 Sabre Build: http://v4musclebike.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15402
Reply
#3
Stick with the Y8 block. You can get YCP pistons from ebay.

Use a straight edge to check block and head for flatness. You should really take to machine shop and have them do the work for that power level. they can check the bores for roundness.

The Y7/8 rods are thin, so look into another set. I thonk you can get pistons and rods for 500-or 600 on ebay..
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NIPPON-RACING-JD...1071532075


Now these put your compression really low, so throttle response and MPGs will be effected. I would look to pistons to put you in the mid 10s for quicker throttle and spool response. You cannot use aftermarket rods on stock pistons and vice versa. do your homework

Fresh OEM springs should be used if staying with OEM cam.

You have alot of options ahead.. I suggest you plan your build. this calc will be your friend. Its not exact, but close enough.


http://www.zealautowerks.com/dseries.html
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#4
Thanks man!
I have a machine shop nearby where we've been doing all our work so that's where I'll be taking it to get everything checked. Now time to buy a block.
Understeer: When you hit the wall with the front of the car.
Oversteer: When you hit the wall with the rear of the car.
Horsepower: How fast you hit the wall.
Torque: How far you take the wall with you.
EJ8 Build: http://www.ej8squad.com/thread-19806.html
1984 Sabre Build: http://v4musclebike.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15402
Reply
#5
Dont forget to have them port the oil pump for more flow.

Heres a set of high comp pistons.. now these shouldn't be ordered yet until you know if your bores are ok. If they need to rebore, then get the oversized 75.5.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/171574026821

It doesnt say what the CR will be with these. But you can run ARP studs and oem gasket. This will net you lower boost range and quick spool up.

I think the cc on them might be 3.0. Idk about the 75mm.

Probe or scat rods are fine.. just make sure they are good with power adders. Some i beam are for NA only.

Or you can get eagles for 329ish.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/191441872254

Ok these say 12.6:1. So you might want to use the calc and see where you sit with your headgasket and any milling done.this is with the normal .035 hg. You can get a comteic .050 and drop to 12.3

Id lower it as much as possible. But you can only do so so much with a headgasket. I certainly hope 93 octane is in your neighborhood cus 91 with this cr and boost will have to have a spot on tune. The 93 will also have to have a spot on tune..
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#6
Yeah I've read around more today and I know about the oil pump, that's also why I want to use a z6 crank with the extra chamfered oil holes, I'd like to make it reliable.
I'm probably going to go with a 10.5 cr.
I'm considering forged Pistons and rods so that I can increase power down the road and not have to worry about it.
Understeer: When you hit the wall with the front of the car.
Oversteer: When you hit the wall with the rear of the car.
Horsepower: How fast you hit the wall.
Torque: How far you take the wall with you.
EJ8 Build: http://www.ej8squad.com/thread-19806.html
1984 Sabre Build: http://v4musclebike.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15402
Reply
#7
So far I think I've settled on Supertech pistons, read many good things about them.
Understeer: When you hit the wall with the front of the car.
Oversteer: When you hit the wall with the rear of the car.
Horsepower: How fast you hit the wall.
Torque: How far you take the wall with you.
EJ8 Build: http://www.ej8squad.com/thread-19806.html
1984 Sabre Build: http://v4musclebike.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15402
Reply
#8
Alright.. I found a set of LS rods on DSO modded for D series for 175..


But ok, forged is always better.
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#9
Thanks for helping out bro!

Been trying to find an exact answer h beam vs I beam but I think for my power goals I beams would be fine, correct? I'm not trying to rev higher than 8k, will probably even leave it at factory redline. Or would h beams be a more reliable option?
Understeer: When you hit the wall with the front of the car.
Oversteer: When you hit the wall with the rear of the car.
Horsepower: How fast you hit the wall.
Torque: How far you take the wall with you.
EJ8 Build: http://www.ej8squad.com/thread-19806.html
1984 Sabre Build: http://v4musclebike.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15402
Reply
#10
H for boost, I for NA

get the CC and height of the pistins so you can check against the calculator
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