Thread Rating:
  • 7 Vote(s) - 3.14 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
Good, and affordable name brand T3 turbo suggestions.
I am doing a turbocharged D16y8 with fully built internals, so far I have Competition Cams stage 1 camshaft, a AEM tru time cam gear, ARP head studs, lowered on Form and Function Type 1s with skunk2 full front and back camber kit sitting on Klutch Sl1 15x8.5 with those size wheels.
Question 1: will I be able to put a decent amount of power to the tires with these wheels or should I buy a set of more track ready rims to swap out on track days?
Question 2: what is a good turbo able to produce 13-17 lbs of boost fairly effectively as well as being reliable and T3 mount as well as under $500ish
Question 3: I plan to order Eagle rods, JE Pistons cast D16y8 oem style pistons, Eagle block guard, Felpro head gasket set and plan to add Supertech valves and valve springs with titanium retainers. My question is this; is this motor going to be able to handle boost around 13-17 on these upgraded internals to deal with the added stress? Also planning on porting and polishing the head for better flow and to take more advantage to put big numbers down on a single slammer. [Image: nepe4eva.jpg]

I've heard some good things about ssautochrome turbo, anyone would vouch for them? I had a godspeed bs turbo that worked okay but fell apart fast.
Using Tapatalk
I choose D series cause if you blow it up you got a new D series for $300 or less , I know motor building is trial and error sometimes and I got a digital micrometer and feel gauge a week gauge and can get more
Using Tapatalk
In track days, I woulnt use those and get a pair of slicks etc.

Befoire you pick a PSI on a turbo, you need to pick a power goal. Then build towards that goal.
You are trying to go cheap and save a few bucks. When you try and save a buck, it will cost you 2.
alot of boost noobs think they can be the one to go cheap and make it work. It ends up costing them twice as much in the end as they have to fix everything and replace junk pats with real parts. Real parts are cheaper when purchased in a kit then by themselves.

Just look to a REAL kit and save alot of headaches down the road.
[Image: yhst-76804679891414_2267_908008]
make sure to port the oil pump on the Y8

Godspeed,Autocrome, any turbo that doesnt say Garrett, Turbonetics, Precision, BW, Holset, Mitsubishi, Etc is going to fall apart at those speeds your trying to push. Theyre not designed for over 10lbs of boost.


pick 2 and the 3rd is what its not

Ive had extensive boost experience and in the end, it was too expensive for me to maintain and fix. I ended up selling my boost gear and building a decent street engine.
Thanks for the go autoworks recommendation! That's exactly what I was looking for! Plus that kit is extremely affordable for everything offered, getting rods and pistons to go with my head parts I already have and then start saving for this kit. If things continue to go so well at work I'll hopefully be buying this kit to install this summer. I will be starting a build thread soon
Using Tapatalk
Having all that power and and also all that camber in the front makes for a crappy contact patch.

So traction will be an issue if you leave the front like it is.

If you plan on porting and polishing the head, I would get it professionally done with a flow bench sheet.

Personally, on mine, I didnt get the ports done, i got 3 angles on both sides and then I gasket matched the port 1" inside.
I used sandpaper barrels that can attach to any drill. Its a little slower then a dremel, but gives you time to do it right and not mess it up.

I cleaned up all the casting marks and just cleaned up the peaks and valleys on the walls to provide a smoother flow. Not much for torque, but it did add more top end HP. I think I have a few pics:

[Image: 20121021185321283.jpg]

[Image: 20121021185227281.jpg]
Yea the camber will be adjusted on race days and such. I have spent a lot upgrading the suspension so I'm pretty confident on my suspension now I'm moving onto the motor. I haven't installed anything performance wise on the motor except a password jdm carbon fiber intake and Yonaka exhaust. I wasn't sure on the exhaust system at first but it has great flow and a excellent sound, very low key, even when getting on it it's pretty subtle, it reminds me a lot of the Apexi N1 exhaust on my EG. At half the cost. Here's the specs on my camshaft, is this going to be a good camshaft for my turbo setup? I'm getting the basic kit from go autoworks with the Garret turbo upgrade option, not the GT but the other one. I'm really impressed with everything that kit has its spot on to what I need and one of what I don't.
[Image: tuhuhuzu.jpg]

[Image: a7e7y7ez.jpg]
Using Tapatalk
Stick with the turbonetics. The Garrett super 60 is a great turbo, but the turbonetics has a little better aerodynamics and design. Hence why it outflows the similar garrett.

Whats your power goal?
What will the car be used for?
My power goal is around 200-250whp and a weekend warrior road race/daily driver setup, I have a CRV that I also daily so it won't see a lot of abuse and I never get on it except at the track really. Plus something that looks clean. I don't do wire tucks I love form but not when it destroys the function. I'm a little older probably then your average Honda performance owner so I see myself as a little more responsible in maintaining a vehicle, I'm big on proper maintenance and respect for your fellow enthusiasts, how the scene used to be before all the punks showed up

You make a point too I think without even meaning to, I need to research compressor design and basic turbo theory, I need to understand what all those numbers mean
Using Tapatalk
try this and see if you can figure it out
and thees always Garretts site with FAQs

[Image: graph.php?version=4&pr0=1&pr1=1.07&pr2=1...duct_id=79]

As yoiu can see on this graph, the dots are RPM points. By 5000 RPMs, it shows the wastegate opening leveling off until the shift point.
The Super 60 flows 26lbs/min so that would be the bottom numbers and also where the engines last RPM point stops. So your right at the limits of this turbo. Hence why the turbonetics is a little better suited. It has a little more wiggle room.

Plug in all your details and pick a turbo and youll see the line. You want to be on the center island. That is the turbo's efficiency zone and where it performs best. you never want to be too far to left or right. those are surge zones and very bad for turbo and engine.
I know this is highly debated but I bought a Exedy stage 1 organic clutch kit and was thinking of the Exedy chromolly 11.9 lb flywheel but have heard that lightweight flywheels aren't good for boost due to the engine needing to be under load to help the turbo spool faster. Yet also I've read as long as it isn't too light a turbocharged motor can benefit from a lightweight flywheel to help with inertia under out without affecting spooling times. Anybody running a y8 with boost and a 12lb flywheel want to chime in, I haven't installed the clutch but it looks sturdy as hell and I've heard it's easy to drive as well. I had a stage 4 clutch on a built high compression b16b ek hatch and it was a real pain in the ass to drive being as how you had to Rev the piss out of it

[Image: 2ytymumy.jpg]
Everything for my top end has arrived except the Supertech valve springs and retainers I'm getting with my income tax check. Income tax time is great isn't it?

I bet were going to see a lot of income tax money purchases threads soon lol
Using Tapatalk

Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)

About EJ8 Squad