Oh where do I start? I've been having problems with my car for about almost two months now and I'm getting very frustrated to the point I don't like to drive my car. Basically my problems are below. If anyone wants to read the 4 page thread I have on H-T here's the link it will give you a little more in depth information.

Problem #1: Bucking bronco. The car will buck/jerk while I'm cruising down the highway and sometimes it will do it while I'm accelerating from a stop. It doesn't do it if I mash the accelerator only at partial throttle.

I've replaced the stock TPS with a Blox unit and calibrated it to spec which I believe is .45v closed and 4.5v WOT. Well, that didn't fix the bucking problem and it gave me problem #2 a really low idle. Replaced the O2 sensor too.

Problem #2: Really low idle. Extremely low idle to the point the battery light will flicker once or twice but wouldn't die. The needle on the tach is at the first mark.

Swapped in a different IACV I had and it didn't fix the low idle problem like I thought it would. But, it did appear to remedy the bucking problem because it was no longer present. I've tried to set the base idle by jumping the service connector and unplugging the IACV and adjusting the idle bypass screw. I had to back the screw out pretty far so the car wouldn't die. Then, I reset the ECU and still no luck.

Problem #3: Bucking part 2 and dies. Woot, the bucking came back after a few weeks of being buck-free. Plus, after it is warmed up the car will die at a stop sign/light, it will die if I put it in neutral and coasting to a stop, but it will start right back up.

The weird thing is that I can get rid of the bucking and dying by unplugging the TPS.

I've replaced the cap, rotor and fuel filter about six months ago. I've cleaned the TB. Changed the plugs and the day after the bucking came back. Changed the plug wires yesterday.

What else could it be? I've been doing a lot of reading and it could be the distributor coil or maybe a bad injector, who knows?

Well that's about it. Oh yeah I have no CEL.

Sorry if none of this makes sense I have a lot of info in my head and sometimes I can't get in down in writing.

This post was last modified: 04-18-2008 12:10 PM by gimmezell.

i know wat your going through, my 240 was giving me problems for years and i replaced many many things only to find out it was a coolant sensor. what all have you done to your motor? alot of times when you throw parts onto a single cam it wigs the computer out, try unhooking your battery for bout thirty to forty-five minutes and see if that clears it for a while. when was your last valve adjustment, and was your engine cold while you were doing it? o, and check your timing.....

Valve adjustment for sure

cardr mentioned the coolant sensor too. I'll probably pick one up tomorrow and give that a try. But, why would it run fine with the TPS unplugged. Does it bypass the coolant sensor?

Believe me I've unhooked the battery plenty of times.
Had a valve adjustment done a few years ago by a local shop.
I don't have a timing gun.

Converted OBD1
chipped P28
stage 2 crower
I/H/E

it wouldnt hurt to get them adjusted again and it only takes a min to check the timing, if ya take it to a shop i dont see why they wouldnt check while theyre already there. does it run better for a bit after you unhook the battery? im not sure about the tps bypassing the temp sensor but the first thing i learned when i got into a shop was to not get fooled by one sensor acting funny. you could take it to a dealer, honda techs have alot better knowledge about stuff like this than some mom n pop shop.

This post was last modified: 04-18-2008 01:22 PM by deesnutz.

A valve adjustment would fix the bucking problem too?

possibly if your valves were that outta wack but im sure you would notice if they were, did you keep your stock valve spring when ya threw your cam in? as dumb as it sounds it seems like your battery cables are loose.

This post was last modified: 04-18-2008 01:33 PM by deesnutz.

Valves that are out of wack (or possibly a valve that's burning or slightly bent) will create a lot of symptoms like that. Especially the idle problems and shutting off randomly. A friend of mine burnt a valve in his otherwise stock (and certified used) CRV and his symptoms were very close to what you're experiencing in day to day use.

No, I put in the the Crower springs.

I think it's some the electrical/ignition.

id have to agree with you, but wouldnt there be even more symptoms along with these?