1. Crower stage2 camshaft.
2. Cam gear of your choice.
3. Crower valve springs.
4. Crower retainers.

......Then get an obd1 p28ecu (if you don't have one yet) a conversion harness to be able to plug it in. Then take it to a shop and have them chip the ecu and dyno tune your new setup.

Also recommended if you don't have one yet is an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. This will help in making some fine adjustments (even though most of it can be handled through a good tune)

You will for sure see more power with a setup like this. Jeremy's car has the same power as my B18B in stock form. That's pretty decent for nothing more than a cam and proper supporting modifications.

This post was last modified: 02-25-2008 07:42 PM by bjscivic.

thanks a lot for all the help-looks like i came to the right place
sorry about all the questions, have just a few more
if i do all this will it be reliable and can i just basically drop in the cam and the valve springs and retainers.how much will this all cost to buy and have tuned. anybody know of a hp number? any good sites to order all this from? -thanks again

I have the exact same setup as above and been running good for about 2 years or so. I ordered the cam straight from Crower for around $250 and I believe I got the springs/retainers off of Honda-Tech marketplace for about $275-300. I bought a OBD2b to OBD1 conversion harness from Rywire.com for $75. How ever you would need a OBD2a to OBD1 harness. I managed to get a chipped P28 ECU off a local forum for I believe $100. Lastly, and most importantly I spent $350 for two hours of dyno tunning. I was going to put on a Skunk2 cam gear on at the same time as I did the cam but the Skunk2 didn't come with the woodruff key. I finally managed to install the gear last summer.

The only problem I had was that when we pressurized a cylinder to keep the valve up the crank moved a little without us knowing. I later found out that I was off about two teeth.

If you have anymore questions I'd be happy to answer them if I can.

NA tuning and modification = EXPENSIVE. ha ha ha
Just had to say it.

Also a mild PnP job on the head will also help with the flow. With the head off go with a two layer head gasket to bump the compression a little bit and gain even more HP. While basically leaving the bottom end stock.

That happens with the Skunk2 Cam gear. You have to advance the timing 4.5 degrees before you put it on the cam:
http://www.d-series.org/forums/showthread.php?t=41363